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Founded in 1382 and still working. Where to go, what things cost, and how the haggling actually runs.

Khan el-Khalili has been a market since 1382, and the lanes off the main tourist run are still where Cairenes actually shop — for gold, for spices, for copper, for wedding goods.

Khan el-Khalili: how to shop a 700-year-old bazaar

The main drag near El-Hussein mosque is the tourist face: papyrus, alabaster, cartouches, t-shirts. Walk two streets deeper and the trade changes character entirely. The coppersmiths' alley, the spice sellers around the Fatimid gates, and the gold souk are all within a few minutes and all far more interesting.

On haggling: the opening price to a foreigner is typically three to four times what the seller expects. Counter at about a third, settle somewhere near half, and be genuinely willing to walk — the walk is not a tactic, it is how you find out whether the price was real. If you are not going to buy, do not start; asking a price is treated as intent.

Khan el-Khalili: how to shop a 700-year-old bazaarKhan el-Khalili: how to shop a 700-year-old bazaar

Khan el-Khalili has been a market since 1382, and the lanes off the main tourist run are still where Cairenes actually shop — for gold, for spices, for copper, for wedding goods.

Worth buying: spices, especially hibiscus and cumin; copper and brass; hand-made shisha; good quality cotton. Worth skipping: "ancient" scarabs, papyrus that is actually banana leaf, and anything alabaster that is suspiciously light.

Khan el-Khalili: how to shop a 700-year-old bazaar
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