Historical cities and holy places

Dendera and Abydos: the two temples worth the extra day

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A painted ceiling nobody expects and a king list that rewrote Egyptian chronology.

Both are north of Luxor and both are usually skipped, which is the reason to go: you can have either of them nearly to yourself on a morning when Karnak is full.

Dendera and Abydos: the two temples worth the extra day

Dendera's hypostyle hall was cleaned of centuries of soot in a long conservation project, and what emerged is the best-preserved painted ceiling in Egypt — deep blue with the sky goddess Nut stretched across it, the zodiac, and the hours of the night, in colour that looks freshly applied. Almost nobody is prepared for it.

Abydos was the cult centre of Osiris and the most sacred pilgrimage site in ancient Egypt. The temple of Seti I holds the Abydos King List: seventy-six cartouches naming the pharaohs from Menes onward, which gave nineteenth-century scholars the framework of Egyptian chronology. Hatshepsut and the Amarna kings are pointedly absent.

Dendera and Abydos: the two temples worth the extra dayDendera and Abydos: the two temples worth the extra day

The temple of Seti I holds the Abydos King List: seventy-six cartouches naming the pharaohs from Menes onward, which gave nineteenth-century scholars the framework of Egyptian chronology.

They are usually sold as a single day trip from Luxor, about three hours of driving in total. If you have a second day in the Nile valley, this is a better use of it than a second pass at the west bank.

Dendera and Abydos: the two temples worth the extra day
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