Koshary, molokhia, feteer and the rest — what they are and where to find the good versions.
Resort buffets in Hurghada serve an international menu with a few Egyptian dishes at the edges. The real food is twenty minutes away in town and costs a fraction as much.

The essentials
Koshary is the national dish and the best value meal in the country: rice, lentils, macaroni, chickpeas, fried onions and a tomato sauce you spike with vinegar and chilli to taste. Ful medames, slow-cooked fava beans, is breakfast for most of Egypt. Taameya is the Egyptian falafel, made with fava beans rather than chickpeas, greener inside and lighter than the Levantine version.
The ones worth going out of your way for
Molokhia is a green leaf stew with a texture that divides people entirely — try it once, with rabbit or chicken. Feteer meshaltet is a laminated pastry served sweet or savoury. Hawawshi is spiced minced meat baked inside bread. Mahshi, vegetables stuffed with herbed rice, turns up at every family table. And sayadeya, fish with spiced rice, is what a coastal town does best.


Koshary is the national dish and the best value meal in the country: rice, lentils, macaroni, chickpeas, fried onions and a tomato sauce you spike with vinegar and chilli to taste.
For drinks: karkade, hibiscus tea, served hot in winter and iced in summer; and sugarcane juice, pressed in front of you at street stalls for the price of a bottle of water.

