Travel notes & guides
Practical tips, itineraries and local know-how to help you plan the trip.
Historical cities and holy places · 1 min read
Tutankhamun: a minor king and the greatest find in archaeology
He reigned nine years and died at nineteen. He is famous because nobody robbed his tomb.
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Historical cities and holy places · 1 min read
Dendera and Abydos: the two temples worth the extra day
A painted ceiling nobody expects and a king list that rewrote Egyptian chronology.
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Historical cities and holy places · 1 min read
Saqqara and Dahshur: watching the pyramid get invented
Three sites, three attempts, and you can see the engineering being worked out in real time.
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Historical cities and holy places · 1 min read
Five thousand years of Egypt, briefly
Enough chronology to make sense of what your guide is telling you.
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Travel tips · 1 min read
Getting online in Egypt: SIMs, eSIMs and hotel wifi
Data is cheap and easy. There is one restriction that catches people out.
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Travel tips · 1 min read
Travel insurance and the excursion small print
Standard policies cover snorkelling. They frequently do not cover quad bikes or diving.
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Travel tips · 1 min read
Plugs, power and the small practicalities
Two-pin European sockets, 220 volts, and half a dozen other things nobody mentions.
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Travel tips · 1 min read
The five approaches worth recognising
Not dangerous, just persistent. Knowing the shape of them removes the friction entirely.
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Entertainment & Spa · 1 min read
El Gouna's lagoons: paddleboards, mangroves and flat water
Twenty kilometres of sheltered channels, warm and shallow, with no swell at all.
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Entertainment & Spa · 1 min read
The Grand Aquarium: the answer to a windy day
Red Sea tanks, a terrarium and a small zoo, two hours, no boat.
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Entertainment & Spa · 1 min read
Makadi Water World: a full day of slides
The biggest water park on this coast, and the easiest day out with mixed ages.
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Entertainment & Spa · 1 min read
The dolphinarium question, put honestly
It is a popular family outing and a genuine ethical trade-off. Both things are true.
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Entertainment & Spa · 1 min read
Riding a horse into the sea
Beginner-friendly, oddly moving, and the horses appear to enjoy it more than anyone.
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Safari and Extreme · 1 min read
Karting in El Gouna and other things to do with teenagers
The age band that finds beaches boring and temples worse. Here is what works.
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Sea excursions · 1 min read
Safaga: the quiet diving town south of Hurghada
Panorama Reef, Abu Kafan and a bay that is one of the best kite spots in the country.
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Travel tips · 1 min read
When the wind cancels your boat trip
It happens a few times a month in spring. What the rules are and what to do with the day.
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Travel tips · 1 min read
Booking excursions: hotel desk, street office or online
The same trip can vary by 60% in price depending on where you buy it, and by more in quality.
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Travel tips · 1 min read
Egypt in winter: the season for the inland trips
Twenty-two degrees at the pyramids, a shorty wetsuit for snorkelling, and no queues anywhere.
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Travel tips · 1 min read
A week in Hurghada: an itinerary that does not exhaust you
Seven days, four excursions, and three deliberately empty ones.
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Travel tips · 2 min read
What a local agency actually does for you
Not a discount. A phone number that answers, and someone who knows which boat is which.
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