Travel notes & guides
Practical tips, itineraries and local know-how to help you plan the trip.
Travel tips · 1 min read
Getting into Egypt: visas, stamps and the Sinai exception
Most visitors buy a visa on arrival for $25. The details that trip people up are elsewhere.
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Travel tips · 1 min read
Water, ice and stomachs: staying well in Egypt
Most travellers' stomach upsets are avoidable, and the usual advice is only half right.
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Travel tips · 1 min read
The Red Sea sun burns faster than you expect
Sea breeze removes the warning signal. Most bad burns here happen on a boat.
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Travel tips · 1 min read
Haggling without the stress
It is a conversation with rules, not a confrontation. Learn the rules and it stops being uncomfortable.
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Travel tips · 1 min read
Travelling Egypt as a woman: a practical account
Attention rather than danger, and it varies enormously between the resort coast and the cities.
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Travel tips · 1 min read
Visiting Egypt during Ramadan
Resorts run normally. Everywhere else changes rhythm, and the evenings become the best part of the year.
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Entertainment & Spa · 1 min read
Hurghada explained: Dahar, Sekalla and the Marina
The town is three quite different places strung along twenty kilometres of coast.
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Entertainment & Spa · 1 min read
Sahl Hasheesh, Makadi and Soma Bay: which bay to stay in
Three purpose-built bays south of Hurghada, and they are genuinely different holidays.
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Travel tips · 1 min read
Getting around: taxis, apps and hotel transfers
Meters are theoretical. Apps solve most of it, and where they do not, agree the fare first.
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Travel tips · 1 min read
Photography in Egypt: tickets, rules and manners
Camera tickets at monuments, hard bans at others, and the one rule about photographing people.
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Travel tips · 1 min read
Landing at Hurghada: the first forty minutes
Visa desk, immigration, baggage, and the taxi negotiation you can avoid entirely.
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Travel tips · 1 min read
What to wear in Egypt, and where it matters
Beachwear on the beach, covered elsewhere. The rules are simpler than the internet suggests.
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Sea excursions · 1 min read
Sataya reef: the long day south that people rate highest
Four hours of driving each way for a horseshoe reef most visitors call the best day of the trip.
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Sea excursions · 1 min read
Liveaboards: what a diving safari boat is really like
Sleeping on the boat gets you to reefs day trips cannot reach. It also means four dives a day.
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Sea excursions · 1 min read
Sharm El Naga: a reef you can swim to from the beach
No boat, no crossing, no waiting for a mooring. Walk in and the coral starts thirty metres out.
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Sea excursions · 1 min read
Fishing off Hurghada: what you catch and what happens to it
Line fishing on the offshore banks, no experience needed, and the cook will grill your catch.
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Safari and Extreme · 1 min read
Wadi El Gemal: Egypt's best national park almost nobody visits
Seven thousand square kilometres of mountain, desert, mangrove and reef, with Roman emerald mines in it.
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Safari and Extreme · 1 min read
Camel riding, honestly: comfort, welfare and whether to bother
Getting up and down is the alarming part. Choosing a well-run operation matters more than the ride.
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Safari and Extreme · 1 min read
Desert safety: the four things that actually go wrong
Not snakes. Heat, sun, dehydration and quad accidents, in that order.
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Entertainment & Spa · 1 min read
Evenings in Hurghada, beyond the hotel bar
The marina, the old town, a shisha café and the one thing worth staying up for.
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